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Travellers’ Tales
Continuing
the adventures of Ursula Schulz whilst travelling through Egypt The
cruise was so beautiful. The boat glided along taking just five days to
get to Abu Simbel, the highlight of my trip with everyday being different.
Amongst other things we visited Nubian temples that were rescued from
great floods by being moved to higher ground.. Whilst
on this cruise, I met an Australian lady who lives in Cairo. She said I
should come to her hotel. It was very cheap. Only 5 dollars a night
including breakfast. My train left for Luxor at 6.30 am, so I left the
hotel at about 6.00am. Accepting that I would not be able to have
breakfast that early, I headed straight for the door. A man called to me
from the kitchen door, “Mrs, Mrs ...” He was waiving a big white bag
at me: “This breakfast – yours! You take! Eat train! (?)” I think he
had prepared lunch instead of breakfast! There were 2 eggs, toast, fruit,
butter, cake, bread, and a juice. I was overwhelmed by the simplicity,
kindness and eagerness to please by these people. Luxor
did not match my memory of it. It’s now dirty. People touch and push
you. One is constantly harassed by all sorts of vendors – a nightmare!
The Egyptian embassy in Paris and people I had met had confirmed that I
could take a bus from Luxor to the oases El Kharga, Farafra and Baharia
then on to Cairo. However, at the bus station I was told –“No Go!” I
was told I must take a train to Asyut, north of Luxor and from there down
again by bus to El Kharga. I had just been on what they call a very nice
special tourist train, which by our standards is one step up from cattle
transport. Thank You! I’d rather not take another train! While I stood
there with a long face, arguing with the station master, a man taps me on
the shoulder and says: “Good morning. My name is Mohsen. I overheard
your conversation and the station master is correct. Tourists must travel
via Asyut. – But Egyptians can go direct from Luxor. I live in El Kharga
where I own a travel agency and, in fact, I can take you all the way to
Cairo through the desert.” Very convenient. One problem. I don’t have
the funds for a private safari. No problem. I discovered I would not be
alone. He had already lined up a Dutch couple and we could share the cost.
In less than 10 minutes I was sold a desert trip, share basis, with Moshen!
He looked OK, but I wanted to meet the Dutch couple, last but not least to
make sure they existed! Moshen’s
5 dollar a night hotel was a dump! The shower worked but there was no
glass in the windows! The roof cafe was interesting and the Dutch couple did exist! We agreed on a
price and set off with Moshen.(In retrospect, I would like to know what
Moshen was into or up to.) The road was perfect but studded with military
check-points and we quickly noticed that Moshen was well known.He would
slip the soldiers cigarettes, bread, sweets and a bundle with unknown
contents. We never showed our passports, were never searched and always
waved on. Perrfect! Moshen knew the desert. He took us to Roman ruins,
half buried temples, to friends houses for tea as well as to remote
villages where people live as in pharaonic times. He also took us camping
in the White Desert, which features the most extraordinary rock
formations, or sculptures of chalk which is why they are white!. After the
night in the desert we visited the Black Mountains (lava) and the Crystal
Mountains. It was truly fabulous but turned sour in Baharia – the last
oasis where Moshen decided we must take the bus to Cairo. He literally
dumped us, which was tragic for me because I had a plane to catch the
following afternoon. There
is a bus service but one that you have to reserve a seat weeks in advance.
The Dutch couple didn’t care. They had another month to spend in Egypt.
When one is desparate, one has to act quickly. When a very luxurious,
air-conditioned jeep pulled up at the gas station I thought, ‘ It’s
now or never!’ The occupants were Japonese diplomats and very nice. The
gentleman understood my problem, had a suitcase removed and offered me the
space. In fact, this man was the Cultural Attache of the Japanese embassy
in Cairo and I learned that the Japanese sponsered the new opera house! They
stopped in front of a luxury building on the banks of the Nile where they
got out of the jeep. Orders were then given to the driver to take me to
‘Pension Roma’. I had no idea what to expect. Someone had mentioned it
and I remembered the name. The Pension occupies the 3rd or 4th floor of
what I call an elegant colonial building of the turn of the century. Very
Italian looking with little balconies, columns and flower decorations. One
rides up in a huge old iron cage elevator and steps out onto beautifully
polished parquet. The large room with antique furniture cost 8 dollars.
After breakfast, at the crack of dawn, Naser Aly – a cab driver who had
approached me on arrival – took me to the airport. So
much for a very enriching, unforgettable month in Egypt! Ursula Schulz |
